Chile Relleno Dip

The small farming community of Hatch, New Mexico, located about 80 miles northwest of El Paso in the Rio Grande Valley, is a prolific grower of onions, pecans, and cotton. But the town’s claim to fame is most certainly its green chiles. “With sandy loam soil and wide daily temperature swings, the high desert climate is ideal for growing chiles,” says fourth-generation chile farmer Tyler Holmes of Morrow Farms. 

The harvest takes place from mid-July to early October, with the later-season chiles turning red and taking on a fruitier flavor as they ripen. It’s not uncommon to be asked “red or green?” when dining out in New Mexico. This official state question, referring to the color of the chile sauce you prefer on your dish, speaks to the chile’s central role in the state’s cuisine. Regardless of color, Hatch chiles are prized for their meaty texture and rich flavor. A range of varieties are cultivated that offer different heat levels, from mild Giuzeppi to intensely spicy Lumbre.

I’ve been going to Hatch every fall for as long as I can remember for my family’s annual “chile trip.” My mom and her sisters grew up just north, in the town of Truth or Consequences (named after the midcentury radio show). My aunt Alma later married into the Franzoy family, which first commercialized Hatch chiles in the early 1900s. Many of the Hatch chile varieties you see in stores today, like medium-hot Big Jim and fiery Miss Junie, were named after Franzoy family members. 

We time our visit to the peak of the fleeting season, when both green and red chiles are available. My family and our chile-obsessed friends, the Odoms, spend the week at my Aunt Alma and Uncle Tom’s ranch roasting chiles until their papery skins are blistered and blackened and the air is perfumed with a spicy, smoky haze. If we’re in a hurry, we use a rotating caged drum set over propane burners, which can roast 50 pounds of chiles in minutes. But when we have time for a slower, more methodical approach, a no-frills kettle grill offers the best smoky flavor. Turning the chiles with tongs, one by one, as they char over the hot flames of sweet, aromatic pecan wood is worth the effort. Once they’re cooled, we portion the chiles into zip-close bags and stash them in the freezer.

At the week’s end, everyone flies or drives back to their respective states with a year’s supply of chiles packed into coolers. Back home, I store them in my freezer, using them throughout the year to add smoky spice to green chile cheeseburgers, pozole verde, Chile Relleno Dip, and lemonade, knowing I’ll be back to Hatch next year to restock.

Where to find Hatch chiles

Find fresh Hatch chiles at grocery stores (like your local Whole Foods Market) from July to October. Fresh chiles, as well as frozen roasted chiles with year-round availability, can be ordered in a variety of heat levels online at hatch-green-chile.com.

How to roast Hatch chiles

Heat a charcoal grill to medium-high (400°F to 450°F). Grill the chiles in a single layer, uncovered and turning occasionally, until well blistered on all sides, 12 to 15 minutes. (Alternatively, chiles may be roasted one to two at a time over the open flame of a gas cooktop.) Transfer chiles to a baking sheet, and let cool.

Notes from the Food & Wine Test Kitchen

• While roasted fresh chiles are preferred, if needed you can substitute with 2 (4-ounce) cans of drained chopped hot Hatch green chiles.
• Let the cream cheese soften fully before mixing for a smooth, lump-free dip. 

This recipe was developed by Paige Grandjean; the text was written by Paige Grandjean.