Grilled Pork Banh Mi

Luke Nguyen grew up in Australia and learned to cook at his Vietnamese parents’ restaurant. He later opened his own restaurant, The Red Lantern, in Sydney. On his first visit to Saigon, he had this simple banh mi sandwich filled with peppery pork and hoisin sauce.

The cucumber and cilantro toppings called for here are standard for many banh mi, though pickled carrot and daikon are also common additions. This recipe is finished with hoisin sauce and sriracha, while others are spread with mayonnaise and garnished with fresh chiles or chile sauce.

How the banh mi evolved

In Vietnam, the term “banh mi” simply means wheat bread of any kind, though it’s most often associated with the Vietnamese baguette. The French introduced baguettes to the country in the 1860s during the early years of colonial rule. At the time, imported wheat was expensive, so the bread was considered a luxury. It wasn’t until bakers began combining wheat flour with rice flour around the time of World War I that baguettes became more widely accessible.

In the 1950s, an influx of North Vietnamese migrants to South Vietnam began to change the country’s food landscape. Until then, baguette sandwiches had been largely based on traditional French fare, but they gradually took on local flavors and ingredients. The banh mi sandwiches we recognize today emerged in South Vietnam during this period and were later popularized in the United States by Vietnamese Americans in the 1980s.

Notes from the Food & Wine Test Kitchen

• For the best balance of flavor, marinate the pork for two to four hours. Because the slices are thin, they absorb the marinade quickly, so a longer soak isn’t necessary.
• Look for light, airy rolls or baguettes with a thin, crisp crust. Bread that’s too dense or chewy can overwhelm the tender grilled pork and fresh toppings.

Suggested pairing

Hoppy IPAs are terrific with these bold sandwiches. Try one from California’s Central Coast, like Firestone Walker’s Union Jack.