Seafood-and-Seaweed Chowder

Dry hard cider and kelp perfume the stock for this Irish-style chowder from Jp McMahon.

Seafood and Seaweed Chowder
Credit: Caitlin Bensel
Active Time:
1 hr 15 mins
Total Time:
2 hrs 15 mins
Servings:
6 to 8
  • A combination of dry hard cider and dried seaweed brings a sweet, mild salinity to the stock.
  • A mix of mussels, littleneck clams, and chunks of pollock or cod bring both briny depth and delicate flakiness to the creamy chowder.
  • Classic chowder ingredients — potatoes, leeks, onion, and cream — create a hearty base, while fresh dill and ground nori add bright herbal notes and an extra hint of the sea.

Jp McMahon could just have easily been a professor as a chef. (He's also a playwright.) For The Irish Cookbook, he interviewed family and dug through archives, surfacing recipes like this one. Seaweed, he says, is his favorite unsung ingredient.

Notes from the Food & Wine Test Kitchen

Find kelp or dried kombu on the international foods aisle at your local grocery store.

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Ingredients

Original recipe (1X) yields 6 to 8 servings

Stock

  • 3 tablespoons canola oil

  • 1 large yellow onion, finely chopped

  • 2 medium carrots, finely chopped

  • 2 medium celery stalks, finely chopped

  • 1 1/2 cups (12 ounces) dry hard cider

  • 7 cups water

  • 1 1/2 ounces dried kelp or kombu

  • 10 thyme sprigs

  • 5 medium garlic cloves

  • 3 fresh bay leaves

  • 1 1/2 pounds mussels, scrubbed and debearded

  • 1 1/2 pounds littleneck clams, scrubbed

Chowder

  • 3 tablespoons unsalted butter

  • 1 yellow onion, finely chopped

  • 4 medium russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 3/4-inch pieces

  • 3 medium leeks, finely chopped

  • 2 teaspoons fine sea salt, plus more to taste

  • 1 1/2 cups heavy cream

  • 1 pound skinless pollock or cod fillets, cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces

  • 2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill, plus more for garnish

  • Finely ground nori, for serving

Directions

  1. Make the stock: Heat oil in a Dutch oven over medium. Add onion, carrots, and celery; cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and beginning to brown, 10 to 14 minutes. Add cider; cook, stirring occasionally, until liquid is reduced by half, 12 to 15 minutes. Add 7 cups water, kelp, thyme, garlic, and bay leaves. Bring to a boil over medium-high. Reduce heat to medium-low; simmer, uncovered, until flavors meld and liquid is reduced to about 4 1/2 cups, about 40 minutes.

  2. Place mussels and clams in simmering stock; cover and cook until shells open, 8 to 15 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer mussels and clams to a medium bowl; discard any that did not open. Let stand until cool enough to handle, about 5 minutes. Remove meat from shells; discard shells, and set meat aside. Pour stock through a fine wire-mesh strainer into a heatproof bowl; discard solids.

  3. Make the chowder: Wipe Dutch oven clean. Add butter, and melt over medium-high. Add onion; cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent, 6 to 8 minutes. Stir in potatoes, leeks, salt, and 4 1/2 cups strained stock (discard any remaining stock, or reserve for another use). Let mixture come to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low; simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until potatoes are tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Stir in cream; cook, undisturbed, just until chowder returns to a simmer. Add pollock; cook, stirring occasionally, until fish is almost cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in reserved mussel and clam meat. Remove from heat. Let stand until mussels and clams are heated through and pollock flakes when pierced with a fork, about 5 minutes. Stir in dill; season with salt to taste. Ladle into serving bowls; garnish with ground nori and dill.

Make ahead

The stock can be prepared through Step 1 and refrigerated up to three days in advance.

Originally appeared: February 2020
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